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Exploring the Charm of Sidmouth and Lyme Regis on the Jurassic Coast

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Chapter 1: A Booklover's Paradise

This piece continues my series highlighting beloved destinations. If you've noticed a recurring theme of bookstores, you’re spot on! Much like an alcoholic’s struggle to pass a pub, I find it nearly impossible to resist the allure of a good bookshop. The intoxicating scent of fresh pages and the promise of escaping into different literary realms are simply irresistible.

Scenic view of Sidmouth's coastline

My recent journey took me to Sidmouth and Lyme Regis, following an extended stay after my daughter's wedding. We chose Sidmouth, a tranquil and refined seaside town in Dorset, located on the southern coast of the UK. We splurged a little for a room with a view of the tumultuous sea, where seagulls and surfers braved the crashing waves.

In Sidmouth, I took a morning dip in the pebble-strewn beach after the storm calmed down, evading the dreaded shopping trip with Mrs. P. Small flocks of turnstones busily searched through the shingle, while an occasional cormorant glided by, skimming the waves.

Section 1.1: Nature and Parks

The town boasts several lovely parks, including Connaught Gardens, which features a café in a clock tower offering breathtaking views of the red cliffs and the beach below. You can access the beach via "Jacob's Ladder," a steep wooden staircase perfect for those with a head for heights, or a more gentle ramp for those who prefer to take it easy.

Connaught Gardens overlooking the beach

We wandered through the local shops and cafés, enjoying a picturesque walk along the River Sid. There, we spotted swift kingfishers darting past, their brilliant colors and characteristic calls often heard before they’re seen. This time of year is my favorite, with blooming trees, budding leaves, and vibrant flowers like daffodils and magnolias heralding the arrival of warmer days.

Beautiful blossoms in Sidmouth

Sidmouth has a delightful, gentle ambiance, where the biggest concern is dodging mobility scooters rather than dealing with beggars. Each year, the town hosts a folk festival that sees Morris dancers and musicians flocking to the area like migratory birds. Unlike many other towns in the UK, there are no visible signs of economic hardship here.

In one of the charming bookstores, we found a book about otters returning to UK rivers, which Mrs. P is particularly fond of—“Ripples on the River”—along with “Endurance,” edited by Levison Wood, intended as a gift for my brother’s upcoming 60th birthday. It’s hard to believe how quickly time passes; it feels like just yesterday we were playing endless games of cricket and football in my parents' driveway or with neighborhood friends.

A glimpse of Sidmouth's charming streets

On our way back, we made a stop in Lyme Regis, just a short distance along the coast, passing through West Bay, a bustling fishing port. Lyme Regis has a more traditional seaside atmosphere, where we dodged rain showers, indulged in fudge, and explored more bookstores.

Chapter 2: Quirky Finds in Lyme Regis

One store, “Sanctuary,” is a uniquely eclectic shop filled to the brim with shelves of dusty second-hand books and an array of quirky trinkets. Part bookshop, part junk shop, it features an odd assortment of items, including a basket of discounted lightbulbs—an inexplicable but amusing sight.

Inside the quirky Sanctuary bookstore

Navigating through the narrow gaps between towering shelves felt like traversing canyons, as we squeezed past fellow customers, all while pondering the shop’s fire hazard status. Miraculously, we escaped without incident and, unusually for me, without making any purchases.

During peak season, Lyme Regis is bustling with tourists; however, on a blustery March day filled with hail and horizontal rain, the seafront was quite empty. A group of geography students, equipped with surveying poles, was conducting a field study along the nearby “Jurassic Coast,” famous for its eroding cliffs and fossil discoveries—of the stone variety, of course, not the local residents.

After enjoying the charm of the South Coast in the off-season, we returned home, having limited our book purchases to just two.

Scenic view of Lyme Regis' coastline

Thank you for taking the time to read my reflections.

Thank you for reading

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