# The Oxygen Dilemma: Ethics of Doping in Mountain Climbing
Written on
Chapter 1: Understanding Doping in Sports
In the realm of sports, determining whether an athlete is engaging in doping can often be straightforward. For instance, Lance Armstrong's use of erythropoietin was clearly a violation, whereas Novak Djokovic's use of a hyperbaric chamber for recovery is generally accepted. This distinction arises from a cultural understanding that categorizes athletes into two groups: those who compete fairly and those who cheat.
However, what happens when a substance, like oxygen, serves both to enhance performance and promote health?
NOT DOPING: Athletes utilize barometric chambers for competition preparation, which, despite their physiological benefits, are not banned or regulated.
Section 1.1: High Altitude Challenges
Climbing Mount Everest, known as the "death zone" above 26,000 feet, poses severe dangers to the human body. Symptoms of altitude sickness can include dizziness, nausea, and fainting, and if unaddressed, these can lead to life-threatening conditions.
To combat these risks, climbers can increase the oxygen levels in their blood through various methods, including acclimatization or medications like acetazolamide. However, the most contentious method remains the use of supplemental oxygen. Many climbers view it as an essential piece of gear, akin to their training equipment.
Yet, utilizing supplemental oxygen raises eyebrows in the climbing community. Renowned climbers, such as Ed Viesturs, argue against its use, likening it to doping. Viesturs asserts that relying on supplemental oxygen diminishes the challenge of climbing.
Subsection 1.1.1: Climbing Without Oxygen
Section 1.2: The Ethics of Oxygen Use
Elite climber Cory Richards believes that climbing without oxygen raises the sport's standards. He argues that fewer climbers using supplemental oxygen enhances the overall experience of the mountain.
According to anti-doping regulations, if one considers the use of oxygen as performance-enhancing, it does fall into a gray area. The World Anti-Doping Agency (WADA) prohibits substances that are beneficial to performance, detrimental to health, or contrary to the sport's spirit. Thus, carrying an oxygen tank could be interpreted as a violation.
Chapter 2: Historical Perspectives on High Altitude
On June 23, 1802, Alexander von Humboldt documented his ascent of Mount Chimborazo, which reached an altitude of 19,286 feet. His experiences of nausea and physical distress were among the first detailed accounts of altitude sickness. Today, we recognize these symptoms as acute mountain sickness (AMS), with potentially severe consequences if untreated.
AMS can escalate to conditions like high-altitude pulmonary edema, where fluid accumulates in the lungs, or high-altitude cerebral edema, causing brain swelling. The progression of these symptoms can occur within days.
The first video, "Doping Exposed: The Hidden Network Fuelling the Olympics," dives into the complexities of performance enhancement in sports, exploring the moral implications of doping.
Section 2.1: Neurological Risks of High-Altitude Climbing
Research conducted by doctors Nicolas Fayed, Pedro Modrego, and Humberto Morales revealed concerning findings regarding brain health in climbers. Their studies indicate that time spent in low-oxygen environments can lead to irreversible brain damage, affecting both amateur and professional climbers alike.
Though climbers may not exhibit symptoms, neurophysiological changes are common, leading to long-term health risks.
The second video, "The 90kg Boss Is Back!" provides insights into the physical challenges athletes face and the broader implications of performance-enhancing practices.
Chapter 3: The Ethical Landscape of Alpinism
In the climbing community, reputation carries immense weight. Gregory Crouch emphasizes that the narrative surrounding an ascent is crucial. Climbers who admit to using supplemental oxygen often face disdain, as the ethos of the sport leans toward purity in achievement.
Historically, the approach to doping in alpinism has evolved. Early climbers were more accepting of any means necessary to reach the summit, but contemporary views favor a purist stance.
The crux of the ethical debate hinges on whether or not climbers disclose their use of oxygen or other substances during ascents. Unlike many sports governed by strict regulations, alpinism relies on self-regulation, which complicates the discourse around doping.
In conclusion, the ongoing debate surrounding the use of oxygen in climbing highlights the need for a flexible and evolving understanding of sports ethics, contrasting sharply with the rigid moralities seen in other competitive arenas. The dialogue in alpinism serves as a reminder that ethics in sports are not always black and white.